A Tshechu is a religious festival held to honour Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padmasambhava), the saint who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. The word “tshechu” means “tenth day,” because these festivals fall on the tenth day of a month in the Bhutanese lunar calendar, the day associated with Guru Rinpoche. The Paro Tshechu falls in the second lunar month, which lands in spring. The Paro Tshechu is one of the most popular festivals in Bhutan and one of the largest Tshechu festivals in the country. It is also spelled Paro Tsechu.
Over several days, monks and laymen perform cham, the sacred mask dances that act out Buddhist legends in the courtyard of Paro Rinpung Dzong. The dancers wear carved masks and heavy brocade robes, and each dance has its own meaning: some retell the life of Guru Rinpoche, others show wrathful deities subduing demons and evil spirits. Watching them is not treated as entertainment but as an act of faith, and each dance is believed to carry a blessing for everyone present. Between the sacred dances, masked clowns called Atsara move through the crowd, teasing children and visitors and keeping the long days light.
Bhutanese families travel from across the Paro district to attend, dressed in their finest gho and kira and heirloom jewellery. For many it is the social event of the year as much as a religious one, a reunion held over shared picnics, butter tea and stalls selling ema Datshi, momos and handicrafts. Some Bhutanese try to attend at least once in their lives simply to receive the blessing.
The highlight of the festival comes on the final morning. Before dawn, a giant Thongdrel, a huge embroidered religious scroll, is unveiled on the wall of the fortress. The name means roughly “liberation on sight,” the belief being that simply looking at it washes away sin. It is shown for only a few hours and rolled away before the sun can touch it, and people queue quietly to press their foreheads to its base. Attending this annual festival is still the best way to understand the living culture of Bhutan.